Digital Camera Cord
USB cord for digital camera?
I purchased a Samsung L100 series digital camera and it did not come with a USB cord to plug into my computer to download pictures. I know where to purchase a USB cord , but what does the end that connects to my tower look like? I know the end that connects to the camera is flat, but what’s the connector look like on the other end of the cord?
This link could show a picture of the USB cable for your camera. There should be software and instructions in the camera manual. Would think the cable would have come with the camera.
http://www.showmecables.com/productDetailsPopUp.asp?idproduct=4309
There may be USB ports in the front and rear of your computer. Try both and you may have success. Also, install any software that came with your camera and turn the camera on in Review Mode.
There is an option in the Control Panel or Yahoo Messenger, Preferences (Calling & Audio) to select back or front USB and Audio inputs. If you can find this place you may be able to choose the one you want to use, but until then just use the one that works.
If you still have trouble, the following information describes a better way to move/copy photos to and from a computer or memory card.
Just received some pictures in an e-mail which I moved to the computer. Then copied these pictures to a memory card and could view them on my camera or show on TV.
If your computer has memory card slots, find the correct slot and copy pictures from the memory card to the computer.
If there are no memory card slots on your computer or the slots don’t work with your memory card, purchase a Targus card reader at Walmart for $8.88 or another brand for less at Ritz/Wolf/Kit camera. Also, they do 3½ x 5″ digital prints for 6¢ each on Tuesday and Wednesday.
CAUTION To prevent memory card corruption, keep batteries charged and don’t delete. Wait for lights to stop flashing then turn camera off before removing memory. For card readers, double click Safely Remove Hardware. Select, then click Stop and OK.
After you have the memory card plugged in, go to My Computer and open the memory card, select the picture you want to copy, and then copy to the My Pictures folder under My Documents under Documents and Settings.
If you have trouble with this, it may be easier to right click on Start and then left click Explore. Find and select the picture you want to copy and then at top left, click the X next to Folders to see a place to select Copy Files. Now select the My Picture folder. Make and select a sub folder then click Copy.
You can also copy from the computer to a memory card.
Have just been playing with this and found that it works really well, but you should first format the memory card in the camera because it adds files to the card you will need.
Next, take a picture of something with the camera.
Place the memory card in the card reader and go to My Computer.
Open the memory card and you should see a folder on the left (DCIM) that has your picture. Do not open the MISC folder on the right.
Double Click on the DCIM folder and you should see another folder e.g.,100HPM417, which includes the name of your camera. Double Click on that folder and you should see the picture you just took.
When you copy from the computer to a memory card, that is the folder where your pictures must be copied. You may only be able to copy one picture at a time.
One last thing, the file names of your pictures must not have any additional letters or those pictures will not be seen by the camera. Also, the file name format must match the file name of the picture you took e.g., HPIM1903. Rename files to the same format as your camera photos.
If you have trouble with this, it may be easier to right click on Start and then left click Explore. Find and select the pictures you want to copy and then near the top left, click the X next to Folders to see a place to select Copy files. You can then select the memory card folder e.g.,100HPM417, that you clicked to see the picture you took and click Copy.
Click this link for other camera tips and complete instructions on cleaning camera and battery electrical contacts.
http://www.google.com/base/a/4210404/D13701973093918363271
Basic Digital Photography: Getting the Light Source Right
Lighting is the single most critical factor in determining the quality of any photograph. Although with Digital Cameras you can edit after the fact, such features are limited and it is more effective to assure that you get the best exposure when taking the shot.
The amount of light on the image sensor, or exposure, is determined by the opening/closing of the aperture, the length of time that the shutter is open, and the amount of light present. For the purposes of this article, the discussion will be limited to working with and enhancing the light present for the shot.
When the light in a situation is not sufficient or when you want to create a different effect with highlights and shadows, an internal flash or external light source can be used. The happy news for the photography novice is that digital cameras have an auto flash feature in which the camera decides when lighting is insufficient and will activate the flash automatically.
One of the most important things to remember about using flash photography for the novice is that all cameras have a flash range. Beyond that range, generally no more than 14 to 15 feet, the flash is not effective. Flash is most often used when shooting indoors where there is generally less light.
One of the pitfalls of using flash when photographing people and animals however is the infamous “red eye” effect which is created when the light bounces off of the back of the retina of the subject. This can be reduced by having subjects avoid looking directly into the camera or using the “red eye reduction” mode. This mode simply emits a tiny flash prior to taking the picture to help the pupil contract prior to the full flash.
Glare is another common problem encountered when using flash photography but can easily be eliminated by being sure not to point the camera directly into any shiny object such as a mirror or glass. Most digital cameras allow the user to have control of the flash function giving them the ability to disable it for use in situations where flash is not allowed or the user is striving to achieve a particular look in the picture. It also allows the user to set the flash so that it is always on, allowing the flash to be used even when the camera senses adequate lighting.
Flash can be used to deal with some lighting related problems outdoors as well. Sunlight can create shadows and cause the subject to appear dark and difficult to discern with the brighter, sunlit area around them. One option is to pose your subject in the shade. Taking photographs in the shade often provides images with better/truer color definition, no shadows, and subjects free from squinting.
When in the sunlight, use of the flash can be particularly helpful in balancing the light and reducing shadows. The fill-flash mode can be useful in any situation where the subject will be darker than the surrounding background whether they are shaded by a hat, a tree, or simply their own facial features. However, fill-flash mode should be used only when the subject is within 6 feet. Beyond this distance full power mode will be necessary.
Use of an external or auxiliary flash can give the user the control necessary to adjust lighting and create special effects. Just as the intensity of a light source influences the exposure in a picture, the direction of the light source can change an image through shadows and highlights. A flash can be attached to a camera with either a “cold shoe” or a “hot shoe”. A cold shoe is merely a plastic shoe that allows the flash to be physically attached to the camera but does not have any contacts that allow the camera to communicate or coordinate the flash activity. With a hot shoe, users can attach a flash sync cord, allowing them to move the flash away from the camera and choose the direction of the lighting. In addition, a hot shoe attachment allows the flash to be controlled by the camera’s flash settings. With the external flash, there are various modes to control the flash function.
• The TTL setting allows the camera and flash to determine the best exposure based upon the focal length of the lens. This is possible when the camera and the flash are of the same brand.
• The Stroboscopic setting can produce multiple flashes within a single exposure to create special effects.
• The Manual setting allows the user to set the flash for full, half, or quarter power.
• The Auto setting allows the flash to determine the best exposure independently. This is used most often when the camera and flash are not of the same brand.
There are two primary types of lighting used in photography. A hard light is created from a single, bright source of light and it produces shadows, highlights and pronounced contrast in the resulting image. Soft light on the other hand is very diffuse, making highlights and shadows more subtle.
Hard light is preferable when detail and distinct color is desired, but soft light is best for a softer image. Light from a single source can be diffused in a number of ways. The flash can be covered with a thin material such as tissue or wax paper or it can be bounced off of another surface, such as the ceiling or a wall, rather than being shown directly onto the subject. Bouncing the light is obviously not effective outdoors and the distance of the reflecting structure should be no more than 6-8 feet. The color of the surface reflecting the light must also be considered. Any color on the surface is generally reflected onto the subject. For this reason, white is generally preferred although professionals use black to absorb light and darken shadows and shiny materials are used to harden the light.
As mentioned previously, the direction of lighting can also greatly influence the characteristics of a photograph. The use of an external flash gives the user the option of moving the light source in relation to the subject.
Front lighting is the most common. When wanting to emphasize the detail of the subject, front lighting is the best choice. However, it can create a rather harsh image with shadows in the background, muted colors in the foreground, and red eye. The use of fill flash and red eye reduction when using front lighting can help to alleviate some of the negative effects, while diffusing the light can reduce harshness.
Back lighting can produce a very dramatic photograph but, if too bright, can cause the subject to appear only as a silhouette unless the object is transparent. Reducing the brightness of the light source and using fill flash to brighten the shadowed areas can improve the quality of a picture with back lighting. Providing lighting from an angle rather than directly from the front or back can be beneficial in either of these lighting situations.
Lighting can also be directed from the side, the top, and from under the subject. Side lighting gives the user the most options as far as angle and the ability to create a wide variety of effects. Side lighting is optimal for creating texture and a sense of depth to a photograph.
For the novice photographer, experimentation is key. Whether diffusing light for softer images, using fill flash outdoors to eliminate shadows, or altering the direction of lighting to create special effects, creating unique, quality images requires practice.
About the Author
Christine Peppler shares information on home electronics products and home entertainment on her website at: http://www.homemedias.info
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